Ceramic Coating in Dallas
Wax sits on top of your paint and burns off in a Texas summer. A ceramic coating chemically bonds to the clear coat and becomes part of the surface — repelling water, blocking UV, and stopping bird droppings and bug acid from etching the finish for years at a time.
From $599 · 2, 3 and 5 year packages · Correction included
How Ceramic Coating Protects Your Paint
A ceramic coating is a liquid polymer that cures into a hard, transparent layer bonded to your clear coat. It isn’t a wax sitting on the surface — it becomes the surface. Here’s what that buys you.
Hydrophobic Barrier
Water beads tight and rolls off, carrying dust and road film with it. Your car stays visibly cleaner between washes, and when you do wash it, most of the dirt rinses away before a mitt touches the paint.
UV & Oxidation Protection
Dallas sees over 230 sunny days a year and regular 100°F-plus stretches. UV breaks clear coat down into chalky, faded oxidation. The coating absorbs that exposure so the paint underneath doesn't.
Chemical & Etch Resistance
Bird droppings, bug splatter, tree sap and hard-water spots are acidic or mineral-heavy, and they etch bare clear coat within hours in summer heat. The coating takes that hit instead and wipes clean.
Scratch Resistance — Honestly Stated
A 9H-rated coating meaningfully reduces the light marring and swirling that builds up from washing and daily use. It will not stop a shopping cart, a key or a rock chip. Anyone promising that is overselling it.
Paint Correction Comes First
A coating seals in whatever is under it — permanently — and its gloss makes existing swirls more visible, not less. That's why correction is included in every package we sell. We don't coat uncorrected paint.
It Pays For Itself
Waxing properly every six weeks runs $350–$600 a year in product and time, and the protection is weakest exactly when summer is hardest. A coating is one cost, no reapplication, and it's still working in year three.
What Does Ceramic Coating Cost?
Price depends on vehicle size, paint condition and the tier you choose. Every package below includes inspection, decontamination, clay bar and paint correction — because coating over defects is not something we’ll do.
Shield — 2 Year
Single layer · 1.5 days
A real coating at the accessible end. Ideal for newer cars with paint still in good condition.
- Paint inspection and decontamination
- Clay bar treatment
- Single-stage paint correction
- Single-layer SiO2 coating
- Wheel faces coated
- 2-year protection
Shield Pro — 3 Year
Two layers · 2 days
The sweet spot for a daily driver you intend to keep. Deeper gloss, stronger beading, longer life.
- Everything in Shield
- Two-stage paint correction
- Second coating layer
- Glass and trim coated
- Wheels coated front and barrel
- 3-year protection
Shield Elite — 5 Year
Graphene · 2–3 days
Graphene-infused, maximum hardness and heat resistance. For show cars and vehicles you want looking this way in five years.
- Everything in Shield Pro
- Multi-stage correction to 90%+
- Graphene ceramic formulation
- Interior leather and fabric coating
- Annual maintenance check included
- 5-year protection
- Large SUV / truck surcharge — +$150–$300
- Matte paint or vinyl wrap coating — quoted
- Engine bay detail — +$59
- Headlight restoration & coating — +$79
- Glass coating (windshield) — +$120
- Interior ceramic (leather & fabric) — +$199
- Annual maintenance service — $149
- Additional correction stage — from $250
What changes the price: vehicle size (a Suburban has far more surface area than a Civic), paint condition (heavier swirling and oxidation means more correction time), the coating tier, and whether you add glass, wheels, trim or interior. If your paint is genuinely in good shape, we’ll say so and skip correction you don’t need.
How We Apply A Ceramic Coating
This is a two to three day job and it cannot be rushed. Anyone quoting you a same-afternoon ceramic coating is selling you a spray sealant.
Inspection and decontamination
Full hand wash, iron remover to dissolve embedded brake dust, then clay bar over every panel. We measure clear coat depth with a paint gauge so we know exactly how much correction is safe on your specific car.
Paint correction
Machine polishing removes the swirls, light scratches and oxidation. The coating amplifies whatever is underneath it, so this step decides the final result. A coating only ever looks as good as the surface it went onto.
Panel prep and masking
Every panel is wiped with isopropyl alcohol to strip the polishing oils — those oils temporarily hide imperfections, and the coating won’t bond through them. Trim, rubber and plastics masked. Final inspection under LED before anything is applied.
Application, panel by panel
The coating is applied in small sections, allowed to flash, then levelled and buffed before it sets. High spots have to be caught in that window or they cure in permanently. Second and third layers go on after the previous one has set.
Cure, test and handover
The vehicle stays dry and under cover for the initial cure. We inspect under multiple light sources and run a water test to confirm even coverage across every panel. You get a maintenance kit and clear instructions for the first two weeks.
Ceramic Coating FAQ
The questions we get asked most — answered without the sales pitch.
Our packages run two, three and five years, and those numbers assume the car is washed properly and not run through brush washes. Dallas heat and UV are harder on coatings than most of the country, so we quote conservatively rather than printing a ten-year number we can’t stand behind.
It significantly reduces the light swirls and marring that come from washing and everyday contact — the coating takes that wear instead of your clear coat.
It will not prevent deep scratches, key marks or rock chips. If stone chip protection on the hood and bumper is what you’re after, that’s paint protection film, which is a different product. We’ll tell you honestly which one fits what you’re trying to solve.
Because the coating seals the surface exactly as it finds it, for years. Every swirl mark and scratch gets locked underneath, and the coating’s gloss makes them more obvious rather than less. Correcting first is the whole difference between a coated car that looks incredible and one that looks shiny and damaged.
Yes, and it’ll be easier than before. Use a pH-neutral soap and the two-bucket method, or a touchless wash. What you must avoid is automatic brush washes and harsh degreasers, both of which wear the coating down early. We include a maintenance kit and walk you through it at handover.
You can drive it as soon as we hand it back. Keep it out of rain for the first 24 hours and don’t wash it for seven days while the coating finishes hardening. Avoid parking under trees in that first week — sap on a curing coating is a genuine problem.
Yes, but with a different product. A standard gloss coating will add shine to matte paint and ruin the finish, so matte and satin surfaces need a matte-specific formulation. Send us photos and the vehicle details and we’ll quote it properly.
Related Services
What goes before a coating, and what goes alongside it.
Paint Correction
The step that happens before every coating. Included in all three packages above.
Exterior Detailing
Not ready for a coating? Hand wash, decontamination and wax or sealant protection.
Interior Detailing
Pair it with the cabin — extraction, leather conditioning and interior ceramic.
Mobile Detailing
Every service we offer, brought to your driveway, office lot or apartment garage.